Concrete Patio Cost in Georgetown, TX

A patio is the one piece of flatwork you choose to build rather than one you are forced to replace, which makes the budget conversation really a design conversation. Size, finish, and how hard the Texas sun hits it decide both the price and whether you actually sit out there in July.

The local math

Installed patios in Georgetown run about $2,500 to $9,000 for the common range of 250 to 450 square feet, from a plain broom finish up through stamped and colored. The table shows where finish and size meet.

Broom finish runs about $6 to $12 per square foot, exposed aggregate about $8 to $18, and stamped work about $10 to $23. Those installed numbers cover forming, the subgrade and base prep, the pour, and the finish; they do not cover a cover, steps, or drainage, which are the add ons further down. Notice the small broom rows barely dip, which is the next thing to explain.

Why small patios cost more per foot

A concrete crew mobilizes the same truck, forms, and finishing labor for a small pour as a medium one, and there is a practical floor to what a job costs to show up and do. Spread that fixed cost over fewer feet and the per-foot price climbs. The first 200 square feet always cost more per foot than the next 200, which is why nudging a patio from 200 up to 300 square feet often adds less than homeowners expect. If you are on the fence about size, the extra footage is usually the cheapest concrete you will buy on the whole job.

Add ons that change the number

A cover or pergola. Posts carry load, so a patio built to hold a roof needs thickened edges or footings where the columns land. Decide on the cover before the pour; retrofitting footings later means cutting the slab you just bought.

Steps and grade. A patio more than a step above the yard needs steps or a low retaining edge, both of which add forms and concrete to the number.

Drainage. A slab against the house has to shed water away from the foundation, which can mean a built-in slope, a channel drain, or a tie-in to a French drain. Trapping water at the house line is the one patio mistake that gets expensive later.

Tie-in at the house. Where new concrete meets the existing slab or brick, an isolation joint lets the two move independently instead of cracking at the seam. It costs little on the front end and is ugly to fix after.

An outdoor kitchen. A slab meant to carry a built-in grill, counters, or a pizza oven wants extra thickness where the weight lands, and ideally gas and electrical stub-outs roughed in before the pour. Planning the utilities into the slab is far cheaper than trenching through a finished patio later.

Shade is the cheapest upgrade

The finish you agonize over matters less than whether the patio is usable at five in the afternoon in August. An unshaded slab on a west-facing yard bakes, and the richest stamp pattern will not cool it down. Orienting the patio for afternoon shade, or budgeting a cover or trees before a premium finish, buys more real enjoyment per dollar than any color layer. A broom finish patio you sit on beats a stamped one you avoid.

For the finish decision itself, weigh a poured slab against the alternative in the concrete vs pavers comparison, and price the upgrade in the stamped cost guide before you commit.